I can hardly believe my trip to the Dolomites is coming up in June. I’ve always dreamed of visiting the Dolomite mountains, which are in northern Italy, in the region called Trentino-Alto Adige, near the border of Austria and Switzerland. The area is known for skiing in the winter months, and hiking in the spring and summer. I have my plane tickets, global entry card, and hiking boots, as well as my Backroads hiking trip reservations, care of my trusty travel agent at Go Your Own Way Travel. The few things left to do include brushing up on the Italian (and German) language and studying up on the wines of the region. Also, getting in a few hikes before the trip might be a wise idea.
Trentino Alto Adige breaks out in to the mostly German speaking Alto Adige in the north and the Italian leaning Trentino in the south. I’ll be meeting my fellow hikers in Bolzano, which is in the north and is the capital of Alto Adige, also known as South Tyrol or Südtirol. For perspective, Bolzano is about a three-and-a-half-hour trip from both Milan and Venice.
As I read about the difficult grape growing conditions in Alto Adige, due to the steep slopes and mountainous terrain in the region, I can only imagine I’ll be earning that glass of wine at the end of each day of hiking. As in many other European wine regions, the vineyards are planted on the slopes along a river, here the Adige River, and the best wines come from grapes planted at around 1,500 feet. At this altitude, the grapes are high up enough to get the benefits of the varying day to night temperatures but are not so high as to be overly exposed to frost.
Alto Adige is in a unique position, where the Alps to the north protect vineyards from cold winds, and the open valleys to the south enable the warm air in from the Mediterranean. There is plenty of sunshine (300 days per year!) but also ample spells of rain to benefit the grapes.
There will be a great variety of wines to try because Alto Adige grows not only more well-known international grapes, such as Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder in German) and Gewurztraminer, but also lesser known grapes prominent in Germany and Austria, including Kerner, Muller Thurgau and Sylvaner. These grapes all make white wines, which is what Alto-Adige’s cool climate excels at. There will be reds to sample too, including Pinot Noir, and the local stars, Lagrein and Schiava.
I have tried wines from Alto Adige in the past, with delightful results. For instance, I had never even remotely enjoyed a Pinot Blanc (or Pinot Bianco) until I drank one from Alto Adige. I always found Pinot Blanc to be flat and bland and, in comparison, Pinot Bianco from Alto Adige is bright and flavorful. Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige seems to have more character to me as well. Lately I have been trying to seek out Kerner, in anticipation of my trip, which is a hybrid of Schiava and Riesling, and beautifully aromatic.
In terms of the reds, I had never heard of Schiava until about five years ago, but once I discovered its bright red fruit and slight tartness, I was hooked. Lagrein I always found to be like Merlot, but I have not had one in ages.
I look forward to doing more exploring of the wines before my trip, and of course during my hiking and wine experience. I’ll report back; and I’m sure you’ll hear all about the food from this hungry hiker as well!