One Enchanting Day in Verona

I spend a fair amount of time on the road for my job, but for the past ten days I have been traveling for vacation.  The main event of my trip was a group hiking excursion in the Dolomites, in the most northern part of Italy, bordering Austria. Before and after, I spent a day each in Verona and Venice on my own.  Far too much happened to document the trip in one blog post, so let’s first talk about Verona.

I had seen pictures of Verona, a town in the Veneto region of north-east Italy, from many of my wine colleagues who travel to the wine expo, Vinitaly, every year in April. I was enamored with the alley ways, piazzas, and seemingly endless array of wine bars and restaurants in this small medieval town.  When I figured out that Verona was about half way between Milan, where I was entering Italy, and Bolzano, where I was to start my hiking trip, I decided to spend a day and night discovering what it was all about.

I arrived to Milan on my overnight flight from New York and immediately made the two hour journey to Verona.  My hotel was just outside the historic center of Verona (Centro Storico), just a short walk to the Arena and Piazza Bra, the main Piazza (or square) in Verona. Enchanting and busy — but not overrun — Piazza Bra beckons you to sit in the park, or at an outdoor cafe, and just daydream while gazing at the Arena, a still-functioning Roman amphitheater featuring operas and other performances.  This area is especially enchanting at night, under the lights of the Arena.

From Piazza Bra, I strolled down Via Mazzini, the busy pedestrian shopping street, to Piazza delle Erbe. Strolling is serious business in Verona, so I quickly had to leave my New York pace behind, and saunter past everything from Gucci to Sephora at a snail’s pace on my way to the second most popular square in Verona. Here you will find colorful architecture, flower boxes, outdoor stalls selling everything from fruit cups to hats and scarves, outdoor cafes, and the Torre dei Lamberti. You can climb the Torre (tower) for beautiful views of Verona, or just wander around the square. I was in awe of all the photo opportunities this tiny square offered, and finally had to take a seat by the fountain and simply take it all in.

One of the biggest tourist attractions in Verona is Juliet’s Balcony, of Shakespeare’s ‘Romeo and Juliet’ fame. The irony is that Shakespeare’s play does not take place in Verona, and there is no balcony in the actual “balcony scene”.  Furthermore, there was never a Juliet, since she is a fictional character.  Still, I went, I took a picture of the balcony and the Juliet statue, and watched the mob of star crossed lovers (i.e. tourists) cover the walls with tiny love notes on sticky pads. I must admit to getting caught up in the forged emotion of it all.

There are certainly other sites to see and things to do in Verona, but I was wonderfully content wandering down alleys lined with bicycles and greenery, flowers and taverna’s, just knowing that eventually I would come full circle and back to one of the piazzas.

I ended my day with dinner in a lovely taverna, Taverna di via Stella, as recommended by one of my colleagues. I started off with an appetizer special of salad with bresaola (an air-dried beef originating in northern Italy), followed by stuffed duck with polenta. Polenta is a specialty here as well, also originating in the northern part of Italy.  I washed it all down with a Valpolicella Classico Superiore from the producer Speri, one of the oldest winemaking families in the Veneto region. I scraped my plate down to the last bit of polenta, accepted a complimentary limoncello from my waiter, and was off to bed to stave off the possibility of jet-lag. Molto Bene! Bellissimo Verona!

Hiking & Wine in the Dolomites

alto adige

I can hardly believe my trip to the Dolomites is coming up in June. I’ve always dreamed of visiting the Dolomite mountains, which are in northern Italy, in the region called Trentino-Alto Adige, near the border of Austria and Switzerland. The area is known for skiing in the winter months, and hiking in the spring and summer. I have my plane tickets, global entry card, and hiking boots, as well as my Backroads hiking trip reservations, care of my trusty travel agent at Go Your Own Way Travel. The few things left to do include brushing up on the Italian (and German) language and studying up on the wines of the region. Also, getting in a few hikes before the trip might be a wise idea.

Trentino-Alto AdigeTrentino Alto Adige breaks out in to the mostly German speaking Alto Adige in the north and the Italian leaning Trentino in the south. I’ll be meeting my fellow hikers in Bolzano, which is in the north and is the capital of Alto Adige, also known as South Tyrol or Südtirol.  For perspective, Bolzano is about a three-and-a-half-hour trip from both Milan and Venice.

As I read about the difficult grape growing conditions in Alto Adige, due to the steep slopes and mountainous terrain in the region, I can only imagine I’ll be earning that glass of wine at the end of each day of hiking. As in many other European wine regions, the vineyards are planted on the slopes along a river, here the Adige River, and the best wines come from grapes planted at around 1,500 feet. At this altitude, the grapes are high up enough to get the benefits of the varying day to night temperatures but are not so high as to be overly exposed to frost.

Alto Adige is in a unique position, where the Alps to the north protect vineyards from cold winds, and the open valleys to the south enable the warm air in from the Mediterranean. There is plenty of sunshine (300 days per year!) but also ample spells of rain to benefit the grapes.

There will be a great variety of wines to try because Alto Adige grows not only more well-known international grapes, such as Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder in German) and Gewurztraminer, but also lesser known grapes prominent in Germany and Austria, including Kerner, Muller Thurgau and Sylvaner.  These grapes all make white wines, which is what Alto-Adige’s cool climate excels at. There will be reds to sample too, including Pinot Noir, and the local stars, Lagrein and Schiava.

I have tried wines from Alto Adige in the past, with delightful results.  For instance, I had never even remotely enjoyed a Pinot Blanc (or Pinot Bianco) until I drank one from Alto Adige. I always found Pinot Blanc to be flat and bland and, in comparison, Pinot Bianco from Alto Adige is bright and flavorful. Pinot Grigio from Alto Adige seems to have more character to me as well. Lately I have been trying to seek out Kerner, in anticipation of my trip, which is a hybrid of Schiava and Riesling, and beautifully aromatic.

In terms of the reds, I had never heard of Schiava until about five years ago, but once I discovered its bright red fruit and slight tartness, I was hooked. Lagrein I always found to be like Merlot, but I have not had one in ages.

I look forward to doing more exploring of the wines before my trip, and of course during my hiking and wine experience. I’ll report back; and I’m sure you’ll hear all about the food from this hungry hiker as well!